MountaineeringStrenuousCAUTION

Mt. Shasta – Avalanche Gulch

Cascades, CA

Elevation Profile

Current Conditions

Bottom Line

Tuesday has an 81% precip chance with light snow and SSE winds — that's your primary weather concern for summit day. Wednesday clears to mostly sunny with light north winds and is your best window. Start no later than midnight Tuesday night to summit and descend before any residual instability develops on new snow.

Weather

40°/27°F · Mostly Cloudy

Avalanche

No Rating (0/5)

Snowpack

0" depth

Stream Crossings

Elevated flows · 5 gauges

Fires

No active fires within 50 miles

Daylight

10h 19m daylight · Sunrise 6:44 AM · Sunset 5:03 PM

Full Briefing

The trip window splits cleanly into two phases: Tuesday is a weather day, Wednesday is your summit day. Tuesday's forecast shows 81% precip probability with light snow at base elevation (34°F), which means accumulating snow above treeline — Avalanche Gulch starts climbing above 8,000 ft and the summit is at 14,179 ft. With an overnight low of 30°F at the valley floor and a standard lapse rate (~3.5°F per 1,000 ft), expect temps in the single digits near the summit during Tuesday night. Tuesday's 18 mph SSE surface winds will likely double at ridgeline elevation — call it 35 mph gusts on the upper mountain, which combined with new snowfall means wind-loading on lee aspects. The Mount Shasta Avalanche Center has no formal rating issued (early season, snowpack is essentially non-existent right now with 0 inches at Annie Springs at 6,021 ft and 0 inches at McNeil Canyon), but the bulletin guidance is right: any new Tuesday snow on a bare or minimally consolidated base is worth watching. Probe for hollow sounds and watch for cracking on steeper sections of the Gulch on your approach.

Wednesday is the window. Mostly sunny, winds 3–7 mph north at the surface (call it 10–15 mph at elevation — very manageable), and temps recovering to 40°F at base. That's a legitimate summit push day. Plan your high camp at Helen Lake (~10,400 ft) Tuesday evening before the brunt of the snow, rest up, and launch for the summit no later than midnight Tuesday to Wednesday to top out before any afternoon convection. Wednesday night brings 7–13 mph NNW winds and partly cloudy skies — fine for descent. Thursday looks even better: sunny, light north winds, 42°F.

The stream crossing data shown is from gauges well outside the Shasta drainage and isn't relevant to your approach. The Avalanche Gulch route this early in November is primarily a scramble on volcanic rock with whatever new Tuesday snow sits on top — crampons and ice axe are warranted given the overnight refreeze, and the icy upper headwall could be genuinely technical with a thin snow layer over hard basalt. Microspikes may not cut it above Red Banks; bring your full mountaineering kit.

Daylight is your other constraint: 10h 19m with a 5:03 PM sunset means a midnight start gives you roughly 17 hours to summit and return to camp, which is comfortable. But if Tuesday's snow is deeper than expected, pace accordingly. Don't push past noon on the summit ridge regardless of how good it feels — descend before thermal softening turns any new snow unstable.

Waypoints

1.

Bunny Flat Trailhead

Trailhead at Bunny Flat. Self-register for permits here.

6,791 ft

2.

Horse Camp / Sierra Club Hut

Historic stone hut. Spring water available. Good acclimatization camp.

7,999 ft

3.

Helen Lake

High camp at Helen Lake. Snow camping on the glacier.

10,200 ft

4.

Red Banks

Volcanic rock band. Crux of the route. Bergschrund crossing early season.

12,999 ft

5.

Mt. Shasta Summit

Summit at 14,179 ft. Sulfurous fumaroles near the top.

14,180 ft

Route Details

Distance

11.5 mi

Elevation Gain

7,500 ft

Elevation Loss

7,500 ft

Max Elevation

14,180 ft

Estimated Days

2

Trailhead

Bunny Flat

Best Season

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

May through July for best snow conditions. Later season is loose scree.

Permit Required

Summit pass ($25) and wilderness permit required. Available online or at the ranger station in Mt. Shasta city.

About This Route

Avalanche Gulch is the standard climbing route on Mt. Shasta (14,179 ft), a massive volcanic peak in northern California. The route is a non-technical snow climb but requires crampons, an ice axe, and self-arrest skills. The sheer vertical gain—over 7,000 feet from trailhead to summit—makes it one of the most demanding day climbs in the lower 48. The route ascends from Bunny Flat through the Sierra Club hut area, past Helen Lake (a common high camp), and up the steepening Avalanche Gulch to the Red Banks—a band of volcanic rock at 13,000 feet. Above the Red Banks, the route traverses Misery Hill before the final push to the summit. Alpine starts (1-2 AM) are essential to catch firm snow and avoid rockfall in the gulch. The mountain creates its own weather and can go from sunny to whiteout in minutes. A summit pass and wilderness permit are required. Wag bags are mandatory for human waste above treeline.

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