Longs Peak – Keyhole Route
Front Range, CO
Elevation Profile
Current Conditions
Bottom Line
Clean conditions window opening this weekend — Low avalanche danger, light winds, and a strong summit day shaping up for Sunday. Tonight and Saturday carry small precip chances (24% / 15%) that could glaze the upper route, so plan your summit bid for Sunday when skies are clear and temps climb to 62°F at the forecast level.
53°/33°F · Mostly Sunny
Low (1/5)
31" depth
Normal flows · 5 gauges
No active fires within 50 miles
14h 37m daylight · Sunrise 5:41 AM · Sunset 8:18 PM
Full Briefing
Sunday is your day. The NWS forecast shows sunny skies with surface winds 6–13 mph W — double that for ridgeline exposure above 13,000 ft and you're looking at 12–26 mph at the Keyhole and on the Narrows, which is entirely manageable for technical mountaineering. Saturday has a 15% snow shower chance that could deposit a light rime or fresh dusting on the slabs above the Keyhole — not dangerous, but worth knowing for friction on the Homestretch. Get your summit bid underway by 4–5 AM Sunday to be well clear of the summit before any afternoon convection, though the forecast is about as clean as it gets.
Avalanche danger is Low at all elevation bands — clean bulletin with no identified problems. The Keyhole Route traverses the Boulder Field around 12,500–13,000 ft and the upper mountain to 14,259 ft, all rated Low. With 31 inches of snowpack still on the ground from Long Lake SNOTEL at lower elevations, expect consolidated spring snow on the approach and through the Boulder Field — likely firm in the early morning and softening by late morning. No instability concerns anywhere on this route right now.
Freezing level tonight drops to around 33°F at the forecast elevation, which means the upper mountain will be frozen hard by pre-dawn Sunday — good crampon conditions on any snow-covered sections of the Trough and Homestretch. By mid-morning Sunday with a high of 62°F, the snow softens fast on south-facing aspects. The Homestretch faces roughly northwest and stays firmer longer, but the lower Boulder Field and Trough can get slushy by 10–11 AM. Plan to be descending the Trough by 9 AM at the latest.
With 14+ hours of daylight and sunrise at 5:41 AM, you have a huge window. A 3 AM departure from the Longs Peak Trailhead (10,760 ft) is standard and gives you plenty of buffer. Tonight's slight chance of rain and snow showers is the only minor wildcard — check conditions at the trailhead before committing and bring your ice axe and crampons regardless. Microspikes won't cut it on a frozen Homestretch.
Waypoints
Longs Peak Trailhead
Start before 3 AM to summit by noon. Headlamp required.
9,400 ft
Boulder Field
Large boulder field. Last sheltered area before exposed terrain.
12,749 ft
The Keyhole
Iconic gap in the rock wall. Bull's-eye painted markers begin here.
13,199 ft
The Narrows
Exposed ledge traverse. Most committing section of the route.
13,780 ft
Longs Peak Summit
Flat summit at 14,259 ft. Dramatic views of Rocky Mountain NP.
14,259 ft
Route Details
Distance
15.0 mi
Elevation Gain
5,000 ft
Elevation Loss
5,000 ft
Max Elevation
14,259 ft
Estimated Days
1
Trailhead
Longs Peak Trailhead
Best Season
July through September for rock route. Earlier requires snow gear.
Permit Required
Permit required May 1-Oct 15 from recreation.gov. Lottery for peak season dates.
About This Route
The Keyhole Route on Longs Peak (14,259 ft) is Colorado's most iconic mountaineering route and the only 14er in Rocky Mountain National Park. The route combines a long approach with exposed scrambling through a series of named features: the Ledges, the Trough, the Narrows, and the Homestretch. Starting from the Longs Peak Trailhead at 9,400 feet, the approach hikes through subalpine forest and alpine tundra to the Boulder Field at 12,750 feet. From there, the Keyhole—a gap in the rock wall—marks the transition to the technical terrain. Each subsequent section increases in difficulty and exposure. The route should be attempted only in good weather. Lightning is the primary hazard; aim to summit by noon and be off the exposed rock by early afternoon. The Homestretch—a steep slab leading to the summit—is the most dangerous section. In early season, snow and ice on the route require crampons and an ice axe.
Plan This Route
Get a personalized conditions briefing with detailed analysis for your trip dates.
Plan This Route