Capitol Peak

Avalanche danger is Low across all elevation bands with no identified problems — genuinely clean bulletin. Capitol's upper snowfields and the approach to the Knife Ridge are not going to slide on you this weekend. The 31 inches of snowpack remaining at elevation is enough to matter on the northeast-facing couloirs and the final push to the summit block, so crampons and axe are in play the whole way, but stability is not a concern.

The weather story is the main thing to manage. Tonight brings a 25% chance of snow showers dropping temps to 21°F — that's light accumulation risk, probably just a dusting, but it could put a thin layer of new snow on the upper rock and ice sections by tomorrow morning. Surface winds tonight are 5–15 mph WSW; at the Knife Ridge (~14,000 ft) that translates to a real 20–30 mph gust potential. Saturday clears up nicely — sunny, highs 38°F at base, light 10–15 mph surface winds meaning 20–30 mph at ridgeline. That's workable but plan accordingly on the exposed sections. Sunday warms to 44°F at base with SSW winds, which is your softest snow day and the one where afternoon freeze-thaw on the upper mountain starts to matter.

Best summit window is Saturday morning. Leave camp well before sunrise (5:51 AM), use the frozen névé on the northeast aspects for fast crampon travel, and aim to be through the Knife Ridge and on top by 9–10 AM before any solar softening and well ahead of any afternoon convection risk (minimal this weekend but still worth respecting at 14,000 ft in late May). Sunday works too but the warmer temps mean the upper snowfields will be punchy by late morning — get moving early or expect post-holing on descent.

Stream crossings on approach are normal and stable — no drama there. With 14.5 hours of daylight you have plenty of margin, but don't let that make you casual about turnaround time on the Knife Ridge. No fires, no significant storm threat, no avalanche problem. This is a good late-May window for Capitol — use it.